The two and three bladed folding propellers fitted to Maxi Yachts currently use anodes bolted to the propeller for galvanic protection. Older propellers do not have these anodes and rely on the leg anode for protection. The propeller fitted with anodes is electrically isolated from the propeller shaft, the propeller without anodes is not. Apparently, some rope cutter installations can bridge the electrical insulation between the shaft and the propeller.
We are told that Volvo do not agree to rope cutters being fitted to their props and if you have a new propeller this invalidates the Volvo 3 year warranty. Volvo have stated that all their dealers are instructed to inform owners of this fact.
Hence owners who are contemplating a cutter should discuss it fully with an authorised Volvo dealer who should also undertake the fitting and provide confirmation of warranty.
Note: Saildrives are also electrically isolated from the engine block, at least on later models. Hence it is important to check there is no continuity between the leg and the engine. Do make sure the throttle/forward/reverse controls do not inadvertently short circuit the insulation!
The standard propeller is a LEFT handed 3 bladed 17 pitch x 12 diameter – and not Right as previously informed.
A Maxi 1000 problem I had last year was when the loo stopped working – I blamed others for blocking it, but found eventually that the holding tank was full of limescale – like the pipes get but this time blocking the internal stainless pipes and 8 – 10 mm thick on the side wall of the tank. I took out the tank and chipped and banged away to get it all out – a job worth doing this winter BEFORE IT BLOCKS if boat is 10 years old+
Also there has been a problem with the new PAR Brydon loos – they deleted a spring behind the inlet valve and many paople are having flushing water priming problems. If they are (as we are), they need to get the spring – this will fix it. They will supply it free!
Derek Gardner Oct 2006
Rob Ware, Eye of Horus adds… “We also had a blocked loo this summer and like Derek I initially blamed the crew. It turned out that limescale (up to 8 mm thick) in the hose between the loo and the holding tank had become dislodged and totally blocked the pipe. I ended up replacing the pipe. It is probably worth checking the internal condition of the pipe every couple of years.”
Chris Wildey adds… “I used RydLyme Marine earlier this year when I was getting worried about pipe blockage. It seems to have worked, and there is certainly no limescale in the tank itself after 5 years. It would be interesting to know how others have got on with this or other solutions. www.rydlymemarine.co.uk
Richard provided these photos in response to a request from Bob Garrett.
“Bob, I’ve fitted a liferaft to Thor, hanging it off the pulpit. I’m really pleased with it as I mounted it in a way that distributes the load down the pushpit rather than hanging off as many do. The pictures say it all – if not, shout and I’ll take some more. The bracket on the inboard side is a sort of meccano-looking dinghy chain-plate I got from the chandler. I used a piece of rubber hose taped to the tubing to rest on the transom. I’m sure you can work out the rest. The good thing is that you can rest the liferaft on the cradle without the retaining strap and the flagpole still fits.”
Richard Davidson, Thor
In my 38, the fuel tank is situated beneath the side galley. Looking aft from the galley sea cock hatch, the forward end of the fuel tank can be seen, at the base of which a drain plug. Ideally when the tank contents are low, but can be done with care when full, this plug can be removed and replaced by a tap available from your local plumbing merchant. Continue reading