We adopted an alternative solution on our Maxi 1100. We’ve strapped a cheap B&Q domestic dehumidifier to a backing sheet which is mounted under the starboard flap of the saloon table. It’s mounted a couple of inches above the floor so you don’t lose too much space for feet, and a permanent drain is made very neatly via plastic tubing into the bilge by the float switch. It’s run via a time clock every few days when we’re not on board. When we are, we can always run overnight to help keep the inside sweet and dry.
Obviously you can’t lower the flap with it in place but it can be quickly and easily removed with just two small neat screws underneath the table.
We wouldn’t recommend running it when stored ashore as I prefer to keep the bilge dry in case it freezes. In fact, what we do is to lash it over the sink so that the condensate can drain directly out – but be sure to leave the sink seacock open. Even cheap dehumidifiers can be bought that have a frost setting that ensures there is no ice build-up.
Vouvray
Sometimes the hob burners won’t stay lit when the knob is released:
Solution: Hold the knob in, light the gas and after waiting 5 seconds for the flame sensor to heat up, let the knob out about 1 mm (1/16″) and then press the knob back in sharply, then release the knob.
The oven and grill won’t stay lit when the knob is released.
If you have a cooker with metal knobs the oven/grill knob may be fixed too far in on the shaft preventing the flame detection mechanism from engaging. Solution is to loosen the knob retaining screw (using an allen key) and move the knob back on the shaft, then tighten the screw. You should have the same or slightly larger gap between the knob and cooker as that for the burner knobs.
Taranaki
I have fitted a fused mini siren with an on/off switch to the + & – wiring of my automatic bilge pump. To my thoughts, the auto bilge should not normally run under normal circumstances. And if it does while sailing or motoring, it probably won’t be heard. With the siren wired in, it will give you an early warning of water being where it shouldn’t be.
Barry Powling ‘Khamsin’
Since we sailed our Maxi 38+ to the Algarve & left it there over the winter, we will need it to be antifouled before proceeding to The Med next year. I therefore contacted the chandlers/marine paint shop to check prices & found that a 2.5 litre tin cost 51% more than in the UK. So I started enquiries with the manufacturer in the Southampton area & they have sent emails to & fro Denmark/Portugal/Spain & I think I now have the price down to UK levels BUT that was not the main problem!
In the UK, antifoul is called by a trade descriptive name whether it be eroding or hard & it also has a code number. In other countries the paint is also given descriptive names with a code number,
e.g. “Hard Racing” but that term does mean the same as “Hard Racing” in UK!! So whatever antifoul paint one uses in the UK, it has a code number & that number has to be used if one wishes to continue using a compatible paint when purchasing it in another country.
I was confused when informed that I should use “Hard Racing” over my existing eroding paint & this confusion was at first also experienced by the UK subsidiary manufacturer/supplier.
Hugh Rowan
Most modern Maxi Yachts (along with many other makes of yacht) are fitted with Volvo Penta engines with sail-drives. It is essential to understand how the anodes protect the saildrive and the prop, and to test/inspect at appropriate times…
Galvanic protection to the saildrive installation is implemented using a ring anode bolted to the sail-drive leg. This anode protects the leg and sometimes the propeller from corrosion. If this anode doesn’t work properly or replaced when worn, your saildrive may corrode – horribly expensive! Later models of saildrive anode can be replaced without removing the propeller.
The two and three bladed folding propellers currently use anodes bolted to the propeller for galvanic protection. Older propellers (and some non-Volvo-Penta folding props) do not have these anodes and rely on the leg anode for protection.The Volvo-Penta folding propeller fitted with anodes is electrically isolated from the propeller shaft, the propeller without anodes is not.
The anodes are intended to reduce the risk of dezincification, which makes the prop very fragile: you can tell if dezincification has occurred by the reddish colour and a dull metallic sound instead of a clean “ring” when tapped.The Leg anode only protects the leg as the leg is electrically isolated from the engine. Owners should ensure that additional electrical work does not electrically connect the leg to the engine or electrical ground. My opinion is that additional hull anodes connected to the engine ground will not have any effect on leg or propeller corrosion.
Related topics: 1100 propeller size, Rope cutters, Propellers and Anodes,
Mick