This is a copy of a very early version of the Maxi 95 owners manual…
“This is the first instruction for the Maxi 95 that has been given out. This binder will, as time goes by, be supplemented with information about service and new equipment etc.
We hope you will be satisfied with your Maxi 95.
MÖLNLYCKE MARIN AB – PELLE PETTERSON AB
Mölnlycke’s leisure-craft department consists of two companies:
PELLE PETTERSON AB and MÖLNLYCKE MARIN AB
Pelle Petterson AB, with head office on Datavagen 2, 436 00 Askim, just south of Gothenberg are selling Maxi and Nimbus boats.
The sales office is in office at the address Sodra Kungsvagen, Gashaga, 181 63 Lidingo and in Sundsvall, Fagelgrand 4 (Box 268) 851 04 Sundsvall. Soon we will be opening an office in southern Sweden.
Furthermore we have our own sales office in Denmark: Havremarken 1, 3060 Espergaerde.
Woolverstone Marine, Woolverstone, Ipswich, Suffolk. We also have agencies in 15 other countries.
Mölnlycke Marin AB, who manufactures Maxi and Nimbus boats and also makes hulls for other yards such as Albin Marin, are today Europe’s biggest manufacturer of sailing yachts in GRP.
Production is spread across three locations:
Lysekil – Manufacturing of, among other things, the GRP parts for the Maxi 95, 87, 77. The manager is Bertil Sahlin. Altogether 200 people are working there. After manufacturing the hulls are sent by truck to
Åmål, where we have an assembly line. The manager is Björn Nordwall.
In Lugnäs outside Mariestad we have both GRP production and assembly lines for Maxi 77 and the motorboat Nimbus. The manager is Hokan Widman.
Furthermore we have a factory in Slite on Gotland for the manufacturing of sails. The manager is Gullan Petterson.
The headquarters for Mölnlycke Marin AB is located at Datavagen 2 in Askim.
The leisure-craft section is managed by Pelle Petterson, Stellan Westerdahl and Lars Wiklund, where Pelle Petterson is responsible for design and development, Stellan Westerdahl is responsible for Pelle Petterson AB and finally Lars Wiklund is responsible for Mölnlycke AB.
WHAT DO I DO WHEN THE BOAT ARRIVES?
Our driver will contact you during the delivery week specified on the invoice. The two of you will then agree on the exact delivery place and the driver will tell you when the boat will be there. A crane or truck with a lifting capacity of at least 4 tonnes must be available. When lifting the boat you should check that the it is placed horizontally in the cradle. If the ground is uneven you will have to shim under the cradle so that the boat is level.
When the boat arrives you should inspect the exterior of the boat for any delivery damage.
There should be a check list in the boat detailing standard and extra equipment. Use the check list to check that all equipment has been delivered with the boat. If anything is missing on incorrect please write or phone to Pelle Petterson AB, Datavagen 2, 436 00 Askim. Address the letter to the Delivery Department. Telephone number 031/28 21 40.
If you are going to keep the boat in the cradle for a longer time, please note the following points:
- The boat should be sitting level
- The engine should be winterised.
- The boat should be cleaned.
- The boat should be covered well. Avoid putting tarpaulins directly on dark surfaces as this gelcoat is more sensitive to wear and tear.
- Clean the boat thoroughly, so that no water is left to freeze and cause cracks.
- Lock the boat.
- If possible store the mast indoors otherwise it should be covered.
- If the mast has been used, flush it thoroughly with fresh water. Lubricate all pulleys , reefing hooks, cleats with oil.
Deck and Hull Construction
The deck, hull and interior module on a Maxi 95 are constructed from fibreglass using the spray method of construction. They are manufactured by first spraying a gelcoat layer into a form. This is a special plastic which has very little water penetration. Against this surface layer a polyester plastic layer and fibreglass threads are sprayed. The fibreglass threads are cut into short bundles. By building up the thickness whilst spraying a soft transformation between the different thicknesses required in different parts of the boat is achieved.
A great deal of attention is directed at ensuring the correct thicknesses in the hull and deck so that the greatest possible strength is combined with the best weight distribution in the boat. The sprayed materials are rolled out very carefully, so that all air pockets are eliminated.
To guarantee the greatest possible strength against all the forces that the boat will be exposed to in heavy seas, the Maxi 95 is reinforced with a thick weave of fibreglass threads on all places where extra strength is necessary. These reinforcements are done by hand and are cast in plastic. When all air has been rolled out of the material it is hardened to a homogeneous and strong construction.
The propeller shaft passage, skin fittings and some iron components used for reinforcement are laminated into the hull and deck, by this these are strongly secured into the boat’s construction.
In the hull the lead keel is cast into the keel pocket. An internal unit made from fibreglass armed plastic is fixed into the hull. This follows the contour of the hull, and is laminated onto the hull. On top of this a special plastic compound is cast in between the hull and the interior module. When the interior module is hardened together onto the hull at all points of contact a homogeneous material is achieved.
The hull and interior module together form an extremely rigid construction, which adds to the good sailing performance for a Maxi 95.
The deck also consists of a double construction “sandwich”, which gives high strength and stability. A certain thickness is built up and rolled free from air. A sandwich core is the placed on the horizontal deck surfaces. One more layer of armed plastic is then built up. When the construction is hardened and the deck is removed from the form a light and rigid construction results.
The deck is the laminated to the hull by hand along the complete toe rail. Additionally a special insert of plastic is squeezed in between the adjoining surfaces. The deck and hull are then hardened together to achieve a homogeneous construction.
The boat is equipped with a Volvo Penta diesel engine type MD2B with 23 horsepower. A detailed description of the engine and its controls (Type MS) is in the included instruction book from Volvo Penta. For those who have not previously used diesel engines it should be pointed out the importance of not completely running out of fuel in the tank as the fuel system must then be “aired” when the tank is refilled. The boat is delivered with an aired fuel system and 10 litres of diesel fuel in the tank. Lubrication oil for both the engine and transmission are both filled up prior to delivery from the dealership.
When the engine is to be inspected the four snap locks on the engine hood and divide it (and the table) into two halves. All important parts of the engine and transmission may then be easily accessed due to the location of the engine in the centre of the saloon.
In the lower part of the compression post the ventilation hole for the engine compartment may be seen. The air is drawn in through the bilge and after being heated in the engine compartment it rises up through the compression post and exits through the mast.
On the compression post there is a anti-siphon device whose purpose is to prevent cooling water getting into the engine cylinders. Because the engine is placed under the water-line this could happen through the cooling water intake, the pump and the exhaust hose when the boat is sailed and the engine not being used.
The engine has an efficient muffler placed in the engine compartment. The exhaust pipe is put up in a bow up and under the deck at the highest topside level and down to the water line through a skin fitting. The cooling water keeps the temperature down on the exhaust pipe. The cool water intake is placed in the bilge in the engine compartment and is fitted with a seacock, on the outside of which is a strainer which prevents larger items from entering the engine cooling system.
Volvo Penta MD2B is known to have a noise level and to further lower this, the inside of the engine hood is insulated with 2 cm thick sound insulation.
The instrument panel is placed in the cockpit under the aft side of the table below the wheel. Apart from the rev counter, the temperature meter and warning lights, which are standard, there are also is a a fuel meter placed under the instrument panel. Next to the hub of the wheel to starboard is the stop switch for the engine on an angled mounting. The two switches on the instrument panel are connected a) a starboard/port lanterns and compass (if a compass is bulkhead mounted), b) instrument lighting and top lights.
The engine throttle control which is mounted on the starboard side of the cockpit can to a certain extent be handled using one’s foot which is valuable whilst mooring.
Alternator, batteries and the electrical master switch as described under the heading “Electrical Systems”.
The propeller shaft is connected to the transmission by a “clamp fitting” of Volvo Penta construction. The skin fitting consists of an internally laminated tube with an inner and outer water tight bearing. The outer bearing is self lubricating but the inner should be lubricated on a regular basis according the instruction supplied. The prop is mounted on the shaft using a wedge and a locking nut. Tightening of the hose clamps by the bearings should be done after the propeller has been run to avoid leakage.
The engine has an AC alternator which is charging the two 12 volt batteries. The alternator is supplied with a so called “double diode” which prevents the “cranking battery”, which is the battery used to start the engine, from being discharged due to loading by lighting etc. This could occur if the boat is sailed for long periods without the engine being used.
The batteries are 60 amp hours each. When the engine is run the alternator is always charging the cranking battery first and secondly the domestic battery. The electrical master switch is placed next to the fuse panel immediately aft of the door to the head and under the cockpit. The electrical master switch cuts the boat’s whole electrical system from the batteries. An outlet for vacuum cleaners etc is mounted next to the fuse panel. The fuses placement, rating and function are detailed in the electrical schematic.
If it is planned to mount an electrical refrigerator or other equipment with high current consumption, that consumption should be carefully reviewed to ensure that the domestic battery is not discharged too quickly. The batteries should be checked at both spring and fall and the poles kept clean. The battery should be fully charged before the start of the season. At delivery from the dealer the batteries are filled with battery acid and charged.
The hand basin is supplied from the fresh water tank. The pump is mounted in the bottom of the wardrobe and the pedal sticks out over the floor lining of the head below the hand basin. The water pipe from the tank to the pump is pulled through the cross-hull reinforcement over to the galley side. The tank has two exits, one for the hand basin in the head and the other for the sink in the galley. This arrangement permits the use of both pumps at the same time without any interruption in the pressure available.
The head hand basin outflow goes through a skin fitting which is fitted with a seacock. This seacock should be closed when sailing because there is a possibility for sea water to flow through it in the reverse direction into the hand basin when the boat is heeling heavily.
The ventilation in the head is through an air inlet in the lower part of the door and an outlet through a hole behind the mirror leading to the deck ventilation in the ceiling of the wardrobe.
The toilet is described in separate instructions.
The aft pump pedal in the galley gives sea water while the fore pedal is connected to the fresh water tank. The sea water intake has a seacock which should be closed when under way to avoid getting water into the sink.
The stove is described in separate instructions.
The sink outlet goes through a skin fitting which is fitted with a seacock. The ice box is drained through a hose. Melted water is collect in the bilge and is pumped out using the bilge pump.
Ventilation is through the deck ventilation above the galley.
The fresh water tank is refilled through the cockpit. The air hose ends pm the side of the cockpit bench. The refill plug is labeled “Vatten” or “Water”.
The fuel refill is on the outside of the coaming in the blue area of the starboard side of the hull. The air pipe for the fuel tank is placed just under the refill fitting.
Next to the electrical fuse box by the ladder is the fire extinguisher (a 2 kg powder extinguisher). Read the instructions carefully.
In the rudder is the rudder stock which is made of stainless steel laminated with heavy fixing steel. When the rudder was mounted the lower portion was fitted with a nylon bearing. The rudder stock is balanced inside it’s sleeve which is fitted with sealing gasket material. On the upper part of the rudder stock is mounted the rudder quadrant with a wedge and a bolt. The cables of the Teleflex steering are fastened to the outer corners of the rudder quadrant and run under the berths in the aft cabin up to the steering head where the wheel is fitted. The steering head and cables are one unit. Check the fastenings of the cables in the quadrant together with the other details often. On the upper part of the rudder stock there is space available an emergency tiller.
BEFORE FIRST LIFT IN
If the boat is new it should be treated according to the following schedule:
Hull Wet Surface
1 The boat should cleaned of all releasing compound from the molding process so that the anti-fouling can achieve a better grip. Use for example acetone or turpentine.
2 When the grease layer is gone the wet surface may be either water polished or primed.
3 The wet surface should now be painted with anti-fouling primer. Mark the water line with Scotch tape. As a suggestion put the tape edge to edge with the existing water line. With this you will have a white line between the anti-fouling paint and the water line. This extra line lightens up the hull and is aesthetically pleasing.
4 The treatment is finished by painting two layers of anti-fouling. This depends on how well the paint is covering.
Topsides and Deck
To maintain the shiny surface of the plastic (the gelcoat), the boat should be polished once or twice per year. It will also then be much easier to keep clean.
In addition to the standard equipment delivered with the boat and extra equipment you may have purchased, thought should be given to the following safety issues:
- extra fire extinguisher
- life jackets for all crew members
- life buoys with a throwing line (horseshoe buoy)
- always keep a first aid kit in the boat
- sea charts, course plotter
- fog horn and radar reflector
- emergency handheld and parachute flares
- 15-20 kg anchor and anchor line
Adjustment of Shroud Plates
The shrouds should tightened as much as possible by hand and after that some more turns with a tool. Note: lock the rigging screws on the bottom of the shroud with a lock screw.
Mounting of Lifelines
The lifelines consist of two stanchions, four wire cables and four end fittings on each side. They are assembled as follows:
1 The stanchions are placed in the stanchions feet (factory fitted) and are locked with a locking bolt which fits on the stanchion feet.
2 The longest and thickest wire is fastened in the upper eye on the pulpit with the fixed forked end piece. The other end of the wire should be disassembled. When the fork is disassembled, pull the wire through the upper holes in the stanchions. The fork is assembled and is fastened at the middle cockpit grab rail. The short thick wire is fastened between the middle cockpit grab rail and the pushpit.
The thinner wires are fastened underneath the thicker ones and assembled in the same manner.
LAUNCHING AND RIGGING
Maxi 95’s should be launched with a crane which has two belts. One belt should be placed just in front of the keel and the other belt should be placed 1/2 meter behind the keel (see separate drawing). It is important that the belts are secured with a rope between the belts.
By doing a little lift with the crane it can be verified that the water line is parallel with the upper horizontal bar on the crane assembly. The boat is then hanging correctly.
After launching it should be checked that the skin fittings are water tight. Make sure that the hose clamps which keep the hoses fitted to the seacocks are securely fastened.
Rest the mast on two supports such as carpenters saw horses. It should be at least as high from the ground as the length of a single spreader. Take away any wrapping and adhesive tape. Remaining adhesive from any tape may be removed with turpentine. Secure all halyards on the mast so they will not later snag themselves. If you have a spinnaker, assemble the ???, which is amongst the spinnaker equipment, on the stainless steel eye on the top of the mast and pull through the spinnaker halyard.
The spreaders are assembled using the existing fittings on the mast and are secured with the bolts and locking rings. The top shroud may then be mounted in the fitting on the outer end of the spreader. Put adhesive tape around the locking rings and bolts.
Lower shrouds, baby stay, fore and after stay are put in place.
Check that all shrouds are fastened to the mast and are not tangled or are on the wrong side of the spreaders.
Assemble the part of the deck connections belonging to the top lantern and ensure that the lantern is operational before the mast is raised.
The mast is now ready to be raised. All rigging screws should be fixed on the boat and fully extended. Check that the rigging bolts in the rigging screws fit in holes in the end of the shrouds.
The easiest to raise the mast is using a crane. Fasten a meter long loop of rope around the mast under the spreaders and hook it on the cranes’s hook. When the mast is in place on the mast step, fasten the lower shrouds in the aft shroud plates and the baby stay in the eye aft of the forehatch. Tighten the shrouds. Remaining shrouds and stays are fastened and stretched. The mast should be straight with a hint of leaning aft.
The forestay, aft stay and outer shrouds are tightened fast, while the lower shrouds should be kept slightly looser. Check that the spreaders are pointing slightly upwards. The aft stay should be tightened so that the mast has a slightly bow aftwards. Lock and cover the rigging screws. Re-tighten after some hours of sailing.
Assemble the ??? parallel with the mast. The kicking strap is standard and is fixed under the boom on the aft side of the mast step.
HOW DO I USE MY MAXI 95? (ideas and opinions from a Maxi 95 sailor)
The main sail is put in place by pulling the sail out in the boom track and the outhaul line is fastened to the clew cringle of the main sail. The sail is then tightened out so that all creases disappear. The mast track slides are put into the mast track and locked with the locking plate. The battens should now be inserted into their appropriate batten pockets and the main halyard fixed to the main sail. The main sail has now been made ready to hoist but should not hoisted higher than the mark in the top of the mast. The luff is then made tight when the boom is tightened down with the ??? .
I have bought a main sail cover which means that the main sail does not have to be removed after each sailing.
When it comes to tightening the foot and the luff of the main sail I make sure that all small creases along the foot and luff disappear without the tightening causing diagonal creases to appear.
The head sail is fastened using the fittings that sit in the front portion of the anchor locker/sail box. The piston hanks are hanked onto the forestay and then the halyard is tightened using the winch mounted on the mast. The headsail for a Maxi 95 is cut in such a way that only one sheet track is necessary on each side. Due to the differing size of the different headsails the cars on the sheeting tracks should be adjusted. I have adjusted the trimming points so that the leach of the headsail is not flapping or over tightened. It is considered better to have a flatter leach than an over-tightened one which causes the sail to bend inwards and act as a brake.
I have marked the different points on the tracks for the sheet cars with adhesive tape.
The Maxi 95 is very well balanced. This means that she sails with very little pressure on the rudder. To achieve maximum speed the boat should be sailed as upright as possible. Therefore select the corresponding amount of sail to let the boat remain upright.
- Genoa I 29 m2
The first sail on my list. Genoa I is the largest headsail and is used with wind forces up to Force 2.
- Genoa II 19 m2
Delivered as a standard sail with the boat and is truly an all-round sail. It works very well with winds up to Force 4.
- Gib 10 m2
Acting as a storm jib while racing and when the family wants a more comfortable sail in close hauled wind.
- Storm Gib 7 m2
As it name suggests is hoisted during heavy whether.
In really heavy weather I have tried to reef the main sail. My opinion is that if you choose to reef the main sail you will experience heavy weather in a much calmer fashion. When reefing the main sail the long line (delivered in the sail bag) is made fast to the stainless steel eye at the end of the boom. The line is then pulled through the outer reefing point clew in the sail. The line is then pulled through the cars on the track located on the other side of the boom and pulled forward to the cleat located on the boom near the mast. Releasing the tension on the ??? and the main halyard allows the inner reefing clew to be hooked on to the reefing hook on the boom. The reefing line is then tightened hard so that the sail is laying close to the boom. The main is the hoisted and the ??? tightened. Note: a few mast track slides must be removed from the mast track when reefing.
The supplied spinnaker is 70 m2 and is used with tail winds. Experiment with this sail with winds below Force 3. The equipment consist of a spinnaker boom, two blocks, two sheets, two ?clam? cleats, one halyard with a block, one boom lift and one one boom downhaul. Two spinnaker winches may be mounted aft of the cockpit to facilitate sailing with the spinnaker whereby the sheets enter the cockpit from the aft.
Before the spinnaker is hoisted ensure that the halyard is running freely in front of the forestay. A spinnaker should always be hoisted and dropped on the leeward side of the boat.
“Exercise due respect for the sea”. There should always be one life vest for each person aboard. A safety harness should always be worn when working on deck in heavy weather. The horseshoe shaped life buoy in the cockpit is not just a decoration. The boat is delivered with an approved 2 kg fire extinguisher. I have also mounted one additional fire extinguisher in a cockpit locker.
First Aid kit, emergency signals, VHF radio, radar reflector are examples of other safety equipment which should be fitted to the boat.
When racing with a Maxi 95 there are different handicap rules. OSCR, IOR and SCANDICAP are the most common rules in Sweden. OSCR used to be the most common one because this rule has always been easy to calculate for different yachts. During the last year a new rule, SCANDICAP has been introduced. IOR is an offshore racing rule and the costs for an official measurement is about 800 SEK.
|fixed two blade propeller||22.8|
|IOR||depending on sail, engine, etc.||23.0 – 24.0 feet|
|l.w.l.||7.8 m||Spinnaker||70 m2|
|Beam||3.2 m||Genoa I||29 m2|
|Depth||1.5 m||Genoa II||19 m2|
|Displacement||4.0 tonnes||Gib||10 m2|
|Ballast||1.6 tonne||Storm gib||7 m2|
|Mast height||12 m||Engine||Volvo Penta MD2B 23 hp|
For the longest engine life it is important to maintain the engine on a regular basis. Volvo Penta’s instruction should be followed as closely as possible.
Hull and Interior
The luster and durability of the boat’s outer surface depends mainly on the care taken. Any open surface above the water line should be waxed and polished every spring and autumn. The waxed surface protects the boat. Wooden details should be oiled or varnished. Use (exterior use) teak oil for teak in the cockpit and flat varnish in the saloon, aft cabin, and forepeak.
For the racer it is important that the surfaces touching the water are smooth and clean. The boat should be forced through the water with the least possible resistance. Carefulness will be repaid amply.
The rig deserves great care. The lifespan will then increase dramatically. The mast will be delivered wrapped in plastic to protect it from damage in transit. The standing rigging will be covered in adhesive tape to prevent it marking the mast during delivery. Any remains may be removed from the mast with turpentine.
When the mast has been used one season, flush it carefully with fresh water when unstepping the mast. This will protect the aluminum from corrosion. All blocks and fairleads for halyards should be oiled at the same time.
The winches should be disassembled, cleaned in diesel oil and new grease put on. If this is not done the locking pawel will get stuck in the old grease and the winch will be unusable.
The sails are as important as the mast when it comes to maintenance. To keep the in good condition they should be folded after usage. The main sail may remain on the boom but should be covered. On the Maxi 95 there is a headsail box where a headsail may be kept short term. The sails should be washed with fresh water a couple of times during the season. Note: do not dry them in high temperature (e.g. furnace room).
If a stain has occurred on the sail it may be removed with diluted turpentine. Don’t over-rub. The sail may also be bathed in lukewarm water with a gentle detergent.
Minor marks and scratches on fibreglass boats are unavoidable. Many people compare the blemishes of fibreglass with the knots and grain of wooden boats.
All boats moldings are checked for light penetration and repaired where necessary prior to assembly. Air pockets and defects are repaired.
The thickness of the hull is measured with a special instrument. Instructions as to fibreglass repairs is included in the binder.
Gelcoat, polyester and glass fibre for repairs may be ordered through your Maxi dealer.
All screw and bolt holes are carefully sealed with silicone at the factory. When the boat is transported, launched, rigged and sailed it is exposed to forces which may cause certain fittings to move and introduce small leaks.
It is easy to seal such leaks with the tube of silicone supplied with the boat.
Carefully examine the area of the leakage. If the leak point can not be located then cover the suspected area with kitchen towels to aid in locating the leak.
When the leak has been located, remove the bolt or screw completely, wipe away any moisture and remove all the old silicone. Apply a generous amount of silicone around the bolt or screw and replace it into its proper position.
Surplus silicone may be removed after a few hours.
Maxi 95 Equipment List
1 set lifeline
4 pieces stanchion poles
1 pieces flag pole
3 pieces rigging screw 7/16 fork-fork
4 pieces rigging screw 7/16 fork/eye
4 pieces special toggles with rigging bolts
10 pieces split pins
5 pieces rigging bolts 6/16
1 piece toggle-fork 7/16
3 pieces toggles 7/16
1 piece ???
2 pieces mooring lines
2-4 pieces winch handles (10″ – one lockable)
2-4 pieces hex keys + crank
1 piece main sheet
1 piece gib sheet
1 piece kicking strap with wire
1 piece stove
1 piece stove gimbal
1 piece small tube silicone
1 piece ???
4 pieces shackle with 6mm ???
1 set cushions
1 set carpet
|2||Instrumentation light and top light switch|
|7||Light for position light and compass|
Note: Further description in the Volvo Penta instruction book, page 12.
1 Steaming light
2 Side lights
3 Stern lights
4 Reading lights
5 Fluorescent light over galley
6 Ceiling light in saloon
7 Ceiling light in aft cabin
8 Ceiling light in toilet
9 Power outlet over fire extinguisher
10 House battery
11 Cranking battery
12 Fuel tank
13 Fuel tank meter
14 Fitting for fuel refilling
15 Fuel filter
16 Connection bus
17 Fuse holder
18 Main switch
a,b,c To instrument panel
d Fuel instrument
- On fuse 8 is light 1
- On fuse 7 are lights 2 and 3
- On fuse 6 are lights 4 and 5
- On fuse 5 are lights 6 and 7
- On fuse 4 is light 8 and power outlet 9
- On fuse 3 is unused
- On fuse 2 is unused
- On fuse 1 is the main fuse