… for the Max from your sailing!

Engine

Engines, gear train, sail drive and props, plus fuel and engine electrics

5saildriveout

Saildrive rubber gaskets should be replaced every 7 years according to Volvo and involves a fair amount of work to remove the whole saildrive. Derek Gardner has written an excellent article about how he replaced the gasket on his Maxi 1000 which you can find further below.

First, thanks also to Bob Garrett for giving us his own experience…

Continue reading

The two and three bladed folding propellers fitted to Maxi Yachts currently use anodes bolted to the propeller for galvanic protection.  Older propellers do not have these anodes and rely on the leg anode for protection. The propeller fitted with anodes is electrically isolated from the propeller shaft, the propeller without anodes is not. Apparently, some rope cutter installations can bridge the electrical insulation between the shaft and the propeller.

We are told that Volvo do not agree to rope cutters being fitted to their props and if you have a new propeller this invalidates the Volvo 3 year warranty. Volvo have stated that all their dealers are instructed to inform owners of this fact.

Hence owners who are contemplating a cutter should discuss it fully with an authorised Volvo dealer who should also undertake the fitting and provide confirmation of warranty.

Note: Saildrives are also electrically isolated from the engine block, at least on later models.  Hence it is important to check there is no continuity between the leg and the engine.  Do make sure the throttle/forward/reverse controls do not inadvertently short circuit the insulation!

The standard propeller is a LEFT handed 3 bladed 17 pitch x 12 diameter – and not Right as previously informed.

In my 38, the fuel tank is situated beneath the side galley. Looking aft from the galley sea cock hatch, the forward end of the fuel tank can be seen, at the base of which a drain plug. Ideally when the tank contents are low, but can be done with care when full, this plug can be removed and replaced by a tap available from your local plumbing merchant. Continue reading

At least a litre of water in the diesel tank containing 150 litres. This was initially discovered by inspection of the glass primary filter and no reason was forth coming until it was found that the “O” ring of the deck filler cap had disintegrated and broken. This turned out to be a very major task to remove this water and the question being had the igniters become rusted? Now where was the lowest point in the diesel tank and how to vacuum out both diesel and water via an inspection cover which would not lift more than 5 mm (yes, all 10 screws had been removed with difficulty). Not to prolong this agonising tale: check the “O” ring and if you do have to replace it (and carry a spare!) ensure it is made of “NITRILE” rubber otherwise it will disintegrate slowly with the diesel.

And on Diesel Bugs……
In the diesel where-o-where does it come from, especially when one hopes one is buying from a busy and reputable supplier. My particular BUG was dealt with using “Soltron” but there are others. Hopefully all’s well before the season starts?

Hugh Rowan